Tradisionele resepte

Daniel Boulud se restaurante vir whisky, kleinhandelwinkels

Daniel Boulud se restaurante vir whisky, kleinhandelwinkels

Hy begin 'n whisky-aandete by al sy restaurante in New York, 23 April

Terug in Januarie Daniel Boulud het besluit om by die whisky -onderneming aan te gaan deur saam te werk met Dalmore -distilleerders en die bekendstelling van The Dalmore Selected deur Daniel Boulud.

Die whisky kom uiteindelik op 23 April by die Boulud -restaurante uit, met 'n feestelike whisky en aandete by alle Daniel -restaurante wat slegs vir een dag beskikbaar is.

Volgens die persverklaring bevat elke spyskaart 'n spesiale cocktail wat gemaak is met Dalmore Scotch, 'n reeks seisoenale geurkursusse wat deur Skotland geïnspireer is, gevolg deur elke restaurant se kenmerkende nagereg met whiskey, saam met 'n glas Boulud se op maat gemaakte Dalmore-uitdrukking. "

Daarna sal die whisky by elke Boulud -restaurant beskikbaar wees, en die etiket sal na verwagting hierdie naweek in die winkels verskyn. By Daniel, die paring beloop $ 260 per bord; Café Boulud's is $ 115; DB Bistro Moderne is $ 90; Boulud Sud en Bar Boulud teen $ 85; en DBGB teen $ 75. Die whisky self, volgens proe -aantekeninge, is gemaak van bejaardesvoorrade van muskatel, madeira en portwynvate.


Steak au Poivre

Ons het ten minste 'n dosyn verskillende resepte vir steak au poivre sedert ons eerste, in 1953, en daar is 'n rede waarom ons, selfs nadat ons vleis begin versier het met chili, soute en droë vryf, aanhou keer terug na hierdie gereg. Hoekom? Omdat dit so goed is. En ten spyte van sy ietwat macho -beeld, smaak hierdie spesifieke voorbereiding feitlik tony. (Ons vind dit 'n goeie verskoning om peperkorrels van goeie gehalte te gebruik, soos Tellicherry of die rokerige, vleisagtige Talamanca del Caribe.)

Sosiale deel

Voeg by versameling

Voeg by spyskaart


Australië

Neil Perry van Rockpool Bar & amp Grill is die sjef met groot naam en#xA0behind Burger Project, wat saam met plaaslike verskaffers werk. Die patty is met die hand gemaak, 100%  gras gevoer beesvleis. Probeer die Amerikaner, met Cape Grim -beesvleis, kaas, piekels, uie, mosterd, geheime sous en rosemayo of 'n eenvoudige kaasburger.
Gekies deur Scott Collins van MEATliquor, Londen

Slagters Diner, Melbourne
Hierdie 24-uur-gat-in-die-muur-voeg met 'n toonbank en stoeltjies is 'n gunsteling by sjefs wat heerlike kos met bestanddele van hoë gehalte geniet. Die hamburger is 'n 120 gram beesvleispastei met tamatiesous, piekels en mayo in 'n melkbroodjie.  
Gekies deur Ashley Palmer-Watts, voorheen van Dinner deur Heston Blumenthal, Londen

Botter, Sydney
Butter is 'n hibriede sneaker, gebraaide hoender en Champagne -kroeg in Surry Hills. As dit 'n onwaarskynlike opset lyk, is dit die projek van die gerespekteerde sjef Julian Cincotta en die span van die Thievery -restaurant in Sydney. Die OG Chicken Sandwich moet u nie misloop nie.
Gekies deur  Josh Niland van   Saint Peter, Sydney

Mary ’s, Melbourne
Dit is 'n voorpos van 'n Sydney -ketting met harde musiek, natuurlike wyne en 'n Amerikaanse atmosfeer. Die kaasburger is 'n moet, tensy jy die veganiese spyskaart verkies.
Gekies deur Andrew McConnell van Cutler & amp, Co., Melbourne


Soos 'n drankie saam met u tee?

Gaan voort, gooi 'n koppie. Ons liefdesverhouding met tee -cocktails het eers begin.

Ek was nog nooit 'n teedrinker nie. Soos Tupac of Biggie, kies u die een of ander, en in plaas van tee, kies ek koffie. Maar skielik drink ek baie tee, want dit het 'n belangrike cocktailbestanddeel geword.

Gaan na die beste kroeë in Amerika, en u vind ten minste een drankie op die spyskaart. In die Lower East Side van New York City, Death + Company het Victim of Love, 'n skemerkelkie met 'n brandewyn uit die Royal Roy-tee in Brooklyn, die Amerikaanse farao gemaak met oolong, en Mace in die East Village bied twee tee-cocktails: die Pandan met rum en Aman-swart tee, en gras met Shochu met wit tee.

Waar kom hierdie drankies vandaan? Die geboorteplek van tee. In baie Chinese kroeë en restaurante word groen en rooi tee bedien met whisky, sodat dit in 'n gemaklike drankie gemeng kan word, een wat verfrissend maar boos is met 'n tikkie kafeïen. Nou is Amerika se fassinasie met drankie op die punt om meer prominent te word danksy twee ondernemers van 30-iets.

'Round Two Kind of Gals'

In 2013 het "teedrinkers" Maria Littlefield en Jennie Ripps Owl's Brew bekendgestel. Gretig om by die mixologiebeweging aan te sluit, maar moeg vir vooraf-verbied-cocktails wat vol suiker en alkohol is, en "Ons is twee soorte meisies," sê hul webwerf en mdashtheir vars gebakte tee gebruik heel blare wat maklik met spiritualieë gepaard gaan. Hulle het gedink tee is maklik om te teug, vol geur, maar nie te soet nie, en die perfekte maat vir pittige spiritualieë en mdashunlike tonikum en bosbessiesap.

Een vroeë produk van hulle was The Classic, 'n Engelse ontbyttee met suurlemoen en lemmetjiesap wat met vodka, tequila of selfs koringbier gemeng kan word. Dit was 'n groot treffer, en dit het Owl's Brew in die winkels geplaas waarby ons graag wil inkopies doen. Maar Littlefield en Ripps is tot nou toe nog nie deur die geesteswêreld geseën nie.

Die Smoky Earl en mdashfres-gebroude Earl Grey- en Lapsang-tee met sweempies heuning en suurlemoen en mdash is heeltemal 'n ander dier. Die geur is onaangenaam (en kan jou laat terugtrek), maar gemeng met Famous Grouse se turfaanbieding, The Black Grouse, werk die kombinasie op een of ander manier, die rokerige botter wat die soeter heuningnote van die tee uitbring, soos 'n Rob Roy.

Ondanks die feit dat dit die suksesvolste is, is Owl's Brew nie die enigste onderneming wat u wil laat drink nie. Die teemerk van Starbuck, Teavana, het 'n reeks mengervriendelike aanbiedings bekendgestel, en Malahat Spirits Co., San Diego, het groot sukses behaal met hul beperkte Malahat Black Tea Rum, 'n heerlike bottel wit rum, swart tee en melasse, wat werk amper as 'n skemerkelkie. Portland's Townshend's Tea het sy gefermenteerde tee begin distilleer in 'n reeks gegeurde likeurs. (Terloops, Bacardi beweer dat hy die wêreld se eerste "teespiritus" uitgevind het met "Tang", 'n groenteproduk wat $ 250 kos en slegs in China gekoop kan word.)

Gelukkig het u nie $ 250 en 'n Air China -kaartjie nodig om by die tee- en tippel -rewolusie aan te sluit nie. Owl's Brew-tee en 'n vyfde van The Famous Grouse kos ongeveer $ 40, en sal u teë gesmelt hou. Nou as ons net krummels met 'n beter smaak kan vind.


Ingevoerde whiskytendense by kroeë en restaurante

"Dit is beslis interessante tye om in die whiskybedryf te wees," sê Hart Johnson, drankbestuurder van Piper's Pub, 'n Skotse/Ierse restaurant in Pittsburgh. Die kroeg se fokus was nog altyd 17 jaar lank ingevoerde whiskeys, met 'n versameling van ongeveer 100 single-malt Scotches, ongeveer 20 Ierse whiskeys en 'n besprinkeling Kanadese.

Maar nou het Johnson ingevoerde whiskeys uit Engeland, Indië en Japan bygevoeg. 'Kliënte wil iets nuuts probeer elke keer as hulle 'n drankie besoek,' sê hy.

Alhoewel dit lyk asof verbruikers gefokus is op bourbon en rog, vind kruising plaas na invoer. Dors na die nuwe en nuwe, soek geeks en nuwelinge na nuwe strande om nuwe ervarings te kry, wat die belangstelling in whiskys uit alle uithoeke van die wêreld dryf.

Crossover gaan voort

'Ek het 'n paar bourbon -drinkers gesien wat oorskakel na die gladder single malt,' sê Tim Beadle, hoofbestuurder van Small Batch - Whiskey and Fare. Die onderneming in St. Louis, MO, is deel van die Baileys 'Restaurants-groep met meer eenhede. Small Batch bevat meer as 120 whiskys, waarvan ongeveer 20% invoer is.

"Ingevoerde whisky probeer meer in die smaak van Amerikaanse smaak as wat dit was, deels om die toename in gewildheid van bourbon teen te werk." -Krissy Harris, kreatiewe direkteur by The Wren, 'n gastropub van die New Yorkse Bua Bar Group.

Vir crossover Scotches wys Beadle na Auchentoshan se Amerikaanse eik en Three Wood -uitdrukkings. Laaglandmout word drievoudig gedistilleer vir 'n ligter smaak, en hierdie twee whiskies word in bourbonvate verouder.

"Ingevoerde whiskies probeer meer in die smaak van Amerikaanse smake as voorheen, deels om die toename in gewildheid van bourbon teen te werk," sê Krissy Harris, kreatiewe direkteur by The Wren, 'n gastropub van die New Yorkse Bua Bar Group. Amerikaners beskou Scotch as turf, en baie gee nie om vir daardie smaak nie, sê Harris. Sy sien hoe meer Skotte in rog- of bourbonvate verouder word om 'n beroep op die Amerikaanse mark te doen en die veelsydigheid van die whisky te demonstreer.

Buitelandse handelsmerke plaas ook terme wat die Amerikaners ken op etikette om verhoor te word, voeg sy by en wys op Johnnie Walker Rye Cask, as voorbeeld. Die Wren dra 50 tot 70 whiskies, ongeveer die helfte van die invoer. Maar verkope neig steeds meer na bourbon en rog, sê Harris.

"Ons is so naby aan die Bourbon -land dat dit moeilik is om op ingevoerde whisky te fokus," erken John Ford, eienaar/bestuurder van The Littlefield, Cincinnati Bourbon Bar and Kitchen. Die restaurant het 90 whiskys, waarvan 60 bourbon. Maar Ford het die Scotch -keuse uitgebrei vanweë die belangstelling van die kliënt.

'Ons het ook 'n paar Kanadese whiskeys, waarvan die personeel baie hou en daaroor praat, want die whisky is baie waardevol,' sê Ford, met verwysing na Pike Creek Whiskey. 'As ons 'n produk vind waarvan ons hou, sal ons dit nie ignoreer nie, net omdat dit nie bourbon is nie,' merk hy op.

Ouderdomsdiskriminasie

'N Ander neiging op die mark die afgelope paar jaar is 'n toename in die vrystelling van "non age statement" (NAS) whisky, veral malt Scotch, maar ook 'n paar Ierse whiskys. Verhoogde verkope het gelei tot 'n uitputting van ouer voorrade whisky. Sommige produsente het gekies om die gewone verklaring van geeste se ouderdomme op die etiket prys te gee ten gunste van beperkte of klein hoeveelhede vrystellings, wat dikwels verskillende houtbehandelings gebruik.

"Ons het gesien hoe ouderdomsverklarings van Scotch -etikette verdwyn," sê Beadle by Small Batch. Kommunikasie fokus eerder op die bestanddele van die gees en metodes vir distillasie en rypwording.

Hy beskou die NAS -verskynsel nie as 'n slegte ding nie. "Whiskydrinkers is opgewonde oor al die beperkte uitgawes en nuwe etikette wat hulle op soek is na nuwe ervarings."

Johnson by Piper's Pub sien ook voordele vir die NAS -neiging. 'Al die enkelmout-distilleerderye spring op die wa en bring 'n dosyn verskillende uitgawes per jaar uit. Toe ons begin, was daar net, jy weet, Glenlivet 12-jarige, 15, 18. Dit is lekker om meer afwisseling op die rugbalk te sien. ”

Gemengde whiskys, wat dikwels nie 'n ouderdomsverklaring bevat nie, sien ook 'n stewige belangstelling. "'Ou man' Scotch word weer koel," sê Pete Vasconcellos, kroegdirekteur by The Penrose, nog 'n gastropub van die Bua Bar Group. Hy sien 'n toename in Cutty Sark en ander "minder hip" whiskies.

“Cutty Sark doen baie om die handelsmerk te herposisioneer soos om saam met jou pa of met jou oupa te drink. Dit stem ooreen met wat Miller Lite gedoen het, wat die retro -bottel terugbring, ”sê Vasconcellos. Cutty Sark is 'n stewige gemengde Scotch: 'n bietjie turf, nie te veel rook nie, nie te soet nie, goed gebalanseerd. Dit bevat wonderlike speserye. ”

Casa Fuente in Las Vegas, 'n sigaarsitkamer in The Forum Shops in Caesars Palace, was die eerste drinkplek in die Noord -Amerikaanse mark wat 'n privaat vat Asiatiese whisky besit het toe dit verlede herfs 'n vat Kavalan Taiwanese whisky verseker het.

Asiatiese beroep

Whiskey kan in baie dele van die wêreld gemaak word, en word dit gemaak: Frankryk, Duitsland, Australië, Finland, Swede en Wallis - om maar net 'n paar te noem. Tans is daar whiskeys uit Asië — Japan, Indië en Taiwan.

"Asiatiese whiskies het deesdae die nuus sterk getref," sê Beadle by Small Batch. Hy het 'n Taiwanese whisky, maar hy het nog nie baie vraag gesien nie.

"Daar is groot belangstelling in Japannese whisky," berig Harris. Toe The Wren oopmaak, het Harris geen Japannese maaltjies in voorraad gehad nie, totdat 'n groep van twintig mense hulle kom vra het, onthou sy. 'Whiskydrinkers is geneig om eksperimenteel te wees. Die Millennial -mark is beslis altyd op soek na die volgende nuwe ding, en dit blyk nou Asiaties te wees. ”

Casa Fuente in Las Vegas het grootliks in die kategorie belê, deur die vat te koop. Die sigaarsitkamer in The Forum Shops in Caesars Palace het die eerste drinkplek in die Noord -Amerikaanse mark geword wat 'n privaat vat Asiatiese whisky besit het toe dit verlede herfs 'n vat Kavalan Taiwanese whisky bekom het.

"Omdat Asiatiese whisky tans een van die warmste kategorieë in sterk drank is, het dit gelyk asof dit die plek is om te begin," sê Michael Frey, eienaar van Casa Fuente.

Frey het groot sukses behaal met Jack Daniel se Single Barrel -program. Aangesien die Japannese distilleerderye nog nie vatprogramme gehad het nie, het Max A. Solano, spesialis in drankprogramme, whisky- en spiritualieë -opvoeder by die verspreider Southern Glazers Wine & amp Spirits van Nevada, by Kavalan Distillery in Taiwan uitgekom vir Fuete.

'Ons vat is uniek, gebalanseerd met baie diepte. Die whisky het meer as vyf jaar in 'n oloroso -sjerriehouer ryp geword; dit is kompleks met 'n ryk sjerrie-, vye- en rosyntjie -neus, "sê Frey.

Die whisky word netjies bedien, teen 'n prys van $ 29 vir 'n half-oz. gooi $ 200 vir die bottel. Casa Fuente vervoer 80 whiskys, 38 uit Skotland en 38 uit die VSA, die res is Iers en Kanadese.

Op The Littlefield het Ford ongeveer ses maande gelede in 'n kas van Suntory's Hibiki belê. 'Cincinnati is nie altyd op die voorpunt van tendense nie,' sê hy, maar hy besluit om te spring. Hy het 'n saak gekoop omdat hy gehoor het dat die uitdrukking uitverkoop sou word.

"As 'n whisky skaars is, stel kliënte belang," sê Ford. 'En as ek die enigste een is wat 'n bottel het, kan ek dit dienooreenkomstig prys.


Gourmet -kombuis, maer kookkuns

Die beskeie herontwerp van Martine Bednarski het oop rakke en ligte kleure ingesluit.

VERBORG agter 'n afswaai in die aandelemark, pyn by die petrolpomp en historiese huisafskermings, glinster die eksklusiewe ontwerperkombuis. Die opknappingsonderneming is moontlik in dele van Suid-Kalifornië afgeskakel, en sommige verbruikers dink moontlik weer aan die behoefte aan $ 8,000 professionele reekse, eilande met granietbedekking en ekstra skottelgoedwassers, maar volgens die interieurontwerper van Los Angeles, Karen Haas: Kliënte wil steeds 'die die beste, die helderste, die nuutste. ”

'Hulle wil hierdie wonderlike dinge hê', sê Cynthia Bennett van Cynthia Bennett & amp Associates in Suid -Pasadena. "Wyn yskaste het 'n stapelvoedsel geword, plus ingeboude koffiemasjiene en spoedoonde."

Of mense eintlik meer kook, bly onduidelik, maar die voorrang van die kombuis as 'n openbare heiligdom lyk op die oomblik veilig. 'Ek noem dit kombuise vir maer kombuis', sê Haas, met verwysing na haar vermoede dat die opwarming van 'n bevrore aandete die hoogte van die kulinêre kundigheid kan wees wat sommige eienaars van $ 5,000 -reekse bestee - sonder om gevalle te tel wanneer die toerusting aan spyseniers oorgedra word.

"Niemand gaan na Kitchen-Aid en die gewone GE nie," sê Susan Serra, 'n prominente ontwerper in New York, wie se kliënte gemiddeld tussen $ 150,000 en $ 200,000 spandeer aan nuwe kombuise wat toerusting van professionele gehalte gebruik deur SubZero en Fisher & Paykel . 'Ek was van dag een af ​​teen hierdie groot toestelle. . . . Wat mense vergeet, is wat hulle regtig nodig het. ”

Middelmarkvervaardigers soos Kenmore en Frigidaire het weergawes van die hoëreeksreeks vir 'n fraksie van die koste bekendgestel. En na die mening van die kontrakteur David Ceballos in Los Angeles, is hulle dikwels net so goed.

'U betaal vir die handelsnaam,' sê hy oor die ander. Maar selfs mense met 'n beperkte begroting, sê Ceballos, "wil steeds die professionele voorkoms hê."

Volgens die National Kitchen and Bath Assn het die algemene verkoop van toestelle afgeplat. Maar Elaine Chaney, senior vise -president vir bemarking en verkope vir Dacor, die duur vervaardiger van toestelle in Diamond Bar, sê sy kliënte wil steeds 'n hoë styl hê - solank dit kom met intuïtiewe tegnologie wat nie 'n graad van Caltech vereis nie werk.

'Baie gesinne is afhanklik van die hoërskoolleerling om 'n hoender in die oond te sit vir aandete omdat albei ouers werk,' sê Chaney.

BAIE VAN die nuwe gerekenariseerde, dubbelbrandstof-oonde met veelvuldige bedieningspanele benodig veel meer as om 'n knop te draai. Hierdie stewige, restaurantwaardige vlekvrye staal-ikone van Viking, Wolf en ander lewer 'n verklaring en lewer verkoolingskrag, maar die vraag is: In watter mate is dit nodig vir die spyskaart van die gemiddelde gesin-selfs 'n fynproewersmenu?

"Wat regtig indrukwekkend is, is om 'n steak te smeer," sê Matthew Lee, 'n James Beard-bekroonde kookboekskrywer, en beskryf wat 'n gasbrander van 15 000 BTU kan bereik wat die meeste tuisstowe met 1800 tot 3000 BTU's nie kan doen nie. Tog maak Lee en sy broer Ted, mede-outeur van "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook", doelbewus klaar met 'n "vierjarige moderne sjef" -stoof in 'n woonstel in Manhattan om resepte vir die gemiddelde kok beter te ontwikkel.

"As jy jou neus in die wêreld van die sjef soos Bobby Flay steek," sê Matthew Lee, "is dit nie die grootte van die kombuis wat jy sal sien nie, maar die doeltreffendheid daarvan."

Soos onthul in die instruksievideo's op www.danielnyc.com, is die huiskombuis van Daniel Boulud, die sjef-eienaar van die restaurant Daniel in New York, wat relatief klein is, selfs beknop.

"In baie van hierdie herehuise word ruimte so dramaties vermors op steroïede," sê Katherine Austin, lid van die American Institute of Architects 'Housing and Custom Residential adviesgroep. 'U kan eksklusiewe toestelle in 'n klein ruimte hê.'

Die volharding van die kombuis van die vertoonlokaalkwaliteit dui daarop dat huiseienaars nog steeds hierdie eens bruikbare deel van die huis as 'n embleem van status beskou, net so belangrik vir hul selfbeeld as die motor waarmee hulle ry. Eiendomsagente en (verrassing) kombuisontwerpers sal u ook vertel dat 'n kamera-gereed kombuis die sleutel is tot die herverkoopwaarde van 'n huis.

Navorsingsdata oor verbruikersvoorkeure wat deur die American Institute of Architects in Februarie bekend gemaak is, het aangedui dat "kombuise steeds die dominante ontwerpgebied binne die huis is, met toegewyde rekenaarwerkareas en selfoon- en persoonlike digitale assistent -laaistasies wat 'n opkomende neiging word."

Vir diegene wat wag vir die kombuis om terug te kom aarde toe, was daar 'n sprankie hoop: die studie het 'n effense terugtrekking van top-of-the-line toestelle opgemerk.

Een faktor wat die gedagtegang kan verander: die toenemende belangstelling in groenbou en opknapping, met die klem op energie-doeltreffendheid, die gebruik van hernubare hulpbronne en in die algemeen die soort oortolligheid wat 'n kenmerk was van baie onlangse opknappings.

Die AIA -opname het bevind dat 49% van die respondente hernubare materiaal aan die tafel wil hê, soos keramiekteëls en IceStone (gemaak van herwinde glas), in teenstelling met ontgroeide, onvervangbare klip soos graniet.

SELFS as omgewingsprobleme dit nie beïnvloed nie, bel sommige huiseienaars hul kombuisplanne terug weens die begroting.

Bennett sê dat sy meer oproepe na "face-lifts" gekry het eerder as volledige opknapping. Gegewe die onsekere ekonomie, sê sy: 'Ek dink baie mense wag om te sien wat gaan gebeur.'

Denys Barbas, 'n ontwerper by California Kitchens in Burbank, verwag dat veranderinge eers klein sal wees. 'As daar iets is, trek hulle terug na sommige van die nisartikels, soos die ingeboude koffiemaker van $ 2,000,' sê sy.

David Glasband, 'n jarelange kombuiskontrakteur in die San Fernando -vallei, is minder opgewonde en merk op dat sy besigheid die afgelope ses tot nege maande met 70% tot 80% gedaal het. 'Die ultra -ryk mense koop steeds hul Vikings, maar afgesien daarvan het die vallei 'n impak. Almal is bang en sit op hul geld. ”

Die tekstielontwerper Martine Bednarski van Eagle Rock het 'n paar jaar gelede haar andersins elegante Spaanse koloniale herlewingshuis naby Occidental College gekoop en was gekonfronteer met 'n "donker en lelike" kombuis wat sy geweet het sy moet opknap - maar op 'n begroting. Die ruimte was beperk en so ook haar wenslysie, maar sy het gesukkel om 'n kontrakteur te vind wat bereid was om enige werk onder $ 50,000 te vermaak.

'Uiteindelik het ek iemand in San Dimas gevind wat dit sou doen,' sê Bednarski.

In plaas daarvan om die wasser en droër na die kelder te skuif (wat meer trappe sou beteken), besluit sy om hulle met middellyfgordyne te bedek, en kry 'n hardehoutvloer wat by die res van die huis pas, 'n marmeren tafelblad, nuwe ligkleurige kaste, 'n losstaande spens en oop rakke.

Sy het genader vir 'n standaard Tappan-reeks en 'n duur toestel gekoop: 'n kompakte Miele-yskas wat sy goed wou lyk vanweë sy losstaande posisie langs 'n ingang.

'Ek het glad nie 'n kompromie aangegaan nie,' sê Bednarski en gee net 'n pasgemaakte kas af wat sy oorspronklik vir die skottelgoedwasser wou hê.

Die resultaat is 'n aantreklike en praktiese kombuis wat moontlik nie groot genoeg is om 'n spysenier gelukkig te maak nie, maar wat pas by haar behoeftes as 'n alleenstaande ma wat eintlik baie kook. 'Ek dink nie ek sou dit nou doen nie', sê sy, 'want ek sou dit waarskynlik nie kon bekostig nie.'

Die gevare van ouerskap deur 'n pandemie

Wat gaan aan met die skool? Wat het kinders nodig? Kry 8 tot 3, 'n nuusbrief wat toegewy is aan die vrae wat gesinne in Kalifornië snags wakker hou.

U mag af en toe promosie -inhoud van die Los Angeles Times ontvang.


'N Nuwe Tribeca -restaurant van Keith McNally's Longtime Star Chefs

VERTROULIK KEUKEN | Die sjefs Lee Hanson (links) en Riad Nasr kyk na ontwerpplanne vir hul nuwe restaurant, Frenchette, wat in die herfs in New York open.

ONS MOET HIT hierdie een uit die park, ”sê sjef Lee Hanson van Frenchette, die Tribeca -brasserie wat hy in September saam met sy jarelange kombuis -medewerker en vriend Riad Nasr open. Die sjefs het rede om druk te voel. Hanson (50) en Nasr (53) was die afgelope vier jaar grootliks afwesig in die kombuise in New York - en hierdie restaurant sal die eerste wees wat hulle ooit besit het.

Die rekord van die sjefs dui op 'n vertroudheid met die geleentheid: om meer as 15 jaar lank die kombuise te bestuur by die restauranteur Keith McNally, New York, se restaurante Balthazar, Schiller's Liquor Bar, Pastis en Minetta Tavern. Toe, in 2013, het Hanson en Nasr met McNally geskei om die plan wat hulle dekades gelede uitgebring het, na te streef, as jong kokke by die sjef Daniel Boulud se heerlike vlagskip, Daniel, in die vroeë 90's.

Hanson en Nasr het net na sy debuut by Daniel gewerk. Dit was 'n woelige en veeleisende omgewing wat 'baie kokke bang gemaak het', sê Hanson, 'maar ons gee mekaar altyd 'n wetende voorkoms.' In hul skaars vrye tyd sou die sjefs, wat albei die tuiste van New York beskou, hokkie kyk en by duikbars drink.

In 1996 het hulle Daniel agtereenvolgens verlaat en 'n ruimte in die middestad begin soek. 'Dan,' sê Nasr, 'het ons besef dat ons geen geld, geen charisma of niks het nie.' Later daardie jaar het 'n vriend aan Nasr gesê dat McNally - wat reeds bekend was vir The Odeon en verskeie ander treffers - 'n sjef nodig het vir 'n spasie op die hoek van Spring, en Crosby het gevra of sy die restaurateur sy nommer kan gee. 'Ek het nie veel daaraan gedink nie, maar hy het my gebel en my genooi om te proe,' sê Nasr. Dit was eers nadat McNally hom die pos aangebied het, dat Nasr die vangs onthul het: 'Ek het vir hom gesê:' Dit is wonderlik, maar ek het 'n maat, en jy moet hom ontmoet. '

Die res van die Balthazar -verhaal, soos die sjefs dit vertel, is een van twee werkperde wat in 'n omgewing sit waar elke aand kelners hardloop om die kombuis te waarsku oor eetgoed soos Anna Wintour en Bianca Jagger. "Ons het ons van ego geskei en die beste weergawe van die restaurant geskep wat ons moontlik kon," sê Nasr. 'Ons het nie tyd gehad om te slinger nie.' Hulle het vir hulself gesê dat hulle 'n paar jaar by McNally sou bly om hul geloofwaardigheid op te bou. 'Maar die man het net aanhou om restaurante oop te maak!' Sê Hanson. Hulle loopbaan met die restaurateur bereik 'n hoogtepunt in 2009 met Minetta Tavern, die eerste McNally -projek waar Hanson en Nasr ook deel -eienaars was. Die Greenwich Village-steakhouse het 'n drie-ster-rave van die New York Times verdien en die reputasie van die sjefs as beenmurg en hamburger verskerp. Hulle beskryf die skeiding vier jaar later as vriendskaplik. 'Dit het tot op die punt gekom waar ons was, wat van die ding wat ons wou doen?' Sê Hanson. McNally bied op sy beurt aan: "Riad en Lee is fantastiese sjefs en van die lekkerste mense waarmee ek nog gewerk het."


Drankwinkels in Noord -Carolina?

Ek weet dit is DCwhiskey, maar ek het volgende week na die Outer Banks gegaan. Ek wonder of iemand weet of hul drankwinkels meer uitgebrei is om items te vind wat moeiliker in die DC -gebied is. Ek het gedink ek probeer voordeel trek, want ek is al daar.

Ek het gevind dat die drankwinkels in die omtrek ontbreek. Meestal standaard bourbone. BYOB

Ek het 'n gevoel gehad, dankie vir die intelligensie. Ek het gehoop dat hulle meer sou kies, sodat ek huis toe kon bring.

Hulle is in my ervaring nogal teleurstellend. Ek woon in Virginia Beach en reis gereeld na die OBX. Die keuse in VB is beter as OBX.

Dankie! My rugsteunplan was om 'n ABC -winkel in VB of Richmond te vind, met iets interessants wat ek nie naby kan kry nie.

Old Forrester Rye word in Julie in NC -winkels vir $ 20 te koop aangebied. Ek het ook die EG -bewys vir $ 60 gekry. Asheville omgewing.

Ek het verlede herfs van Alexandria na die driehoek verhuis. Die aanbod in Noord -Carolina ontbreek baie. Pryse is 'n bietjie hoër, maar meestal op gelyke voet.

Ek gaan baie na die Carolina Beaches naby Wilmington en stop onderweg in 'n paar van die plattelandse winkels. Ek het baie goeie vondste in hierdie winkels gehad. Ek stel voor dat u 'n kaart maak van wat onderweg is. As u via HWY 64 gaan, gaan u deur 'n paar gebiede wat beslis die moeite werd is om na te kyk. As u 17 daal, is u beperk tot wat in OBX is, en my raaiskoot is nie veel nie. Maar ek was al 14 jaar nie.

Weens verskaffingsprobleme word winkels wat swaar verhandel word, skoon gekies wanneer versendings vir die meeste van die seldsame goedere inkom.

In die beste geval vind u miskien iets soos EHT -klein bondel, Blanton 's of EC BP. Absoluut die beste geval. Alles wat skaarser word, word in stedelike gebiede geloot of aan voorkeurkliënte in die platteland gebied.


Daniel Boulud se restaurante vir whisky, kleinhandelwinkels - resepte

Gemiddelde prys: $150

Die whisky:

Buffalo Trace Kosher bied 'n ware kosher -gees wat ook ten volle in die smaak kom. Die sap word gemaak uit dieselfde resep met gegeurde bourbon as die Weller- en Pappy -lyne van Buffalo Trace. Die verskil is dat die mash van volledig skoongemaakte stilhouers en pype in kosher vate gelaai word (dit beteken dat die vate spesiaal gemaak en onder die wakende oog van 'n rabbi van die Chicago Rabbinical Council aangekoop is).

Die whisky verouder dan sewe jaar lank by Buffalo Trace voordat dit gemeng, geproef en gebottel word.

Proe -aantekeninge:

Daar is 'n bekende noot van Red Hots en vanieljeroom op die neus, met 'n sweempie halfgedroogde blomme. Die verhemelte versag die kaneel na 'n houtagtige en droë bas terwyl die blomme verdiep na somerblomme terwyl 'n tikkie pruime en bessies aankom, wat soetheid en helderheid toevoeg. Die einde hou vas aan die droë bas, terwyl 'n sweempie anys laat opduik met 'n effense vanieljeroom-tabak wat die medium lengte vervaag.

Bottom line:

Dit is 'n jaarlikse uitgawe wat net voor Pasga val. Die MSRP is baie laer op hierdie een ($ 40), maar verwag dat u dit minstens dubbel so veel as plaaslik in Kentucky sal vind, en nog baie meer, hoe verder u uit die pakhuise van Buffalo Trace en die datum van pasga kom. Dit alles gesê, dit is 'n uitstekende spesiale whisky wat in elke prysklas 'n bottel kan pas.

Cream of Kentucky 11.5 jaar oud

Gemiddelde prys: $160

Die whisky:

Hierdie whisky is deel van die pasgemaakte lyn van die bourbon -legende Jim Rutledge. Rutledge was 21 jaar lank die hoofstoker by Four Roses en bou die wêreldwye bekendheid waaroor die handelsmerk vandag bekend is. Rutledge verkry tans die beste vate wat hy kan vind om hierdie terugslagmerk whisky te skep, waarvan die etikette vroeër deur Norman Rockwell geverf is.

Proe -aantekeninge:

Jy voel die diep bourbon -erfenis van die neus af tot by die afwerking as klassieke note van olierige vanieljeblom, sagte sederhout en ryk toffie wat jou aantrek. Die smaak hou die toffie en vanielje vas, maar verander ook in soet kersie met 'n geur van speserye, wat amper soos 'n Cherry Dr. Pepper op die beste moontlike manier is. 'N Tikkie bitterheid kom laat in via 'n donker sjokolade -atmosfeer (veral met 'n druppel water) terwyl die sy vinnig sluk (amper ook vervaag vinnig, en laat u warm en houtagtige speserye oor.

Bottom line:

Dit kos eintlik $ 150 MSRP, so die hype -masjien het die prys nog nie oorgeneem nie. Tog is dit 'n klassieke bourbon wat ikoniese note uit die styl tref, wat dit 'n goeie bottel maak om die geure in u smaak werklik in te skakel. Vir ons is die vervaag 'n bietjie vinnig aan die einde, maar vir sommige is dit presies wat hulle wil hê.

Knob Creek 2001

Gemiddelde prys: $160

Die whisky:

Hierdie bourbon handel oor erfenis. In 2001 neem Fred Noe die bewind van Jim Beam van sy legendariese vader, Booker Noe, oor. As deel van die oorgang het Booker Noe 'n laaste groep vate gestoor om sy seun klaar te maak en los te maak om sy opkoms na Master Distiller te vier. Die sap is 14 jaar lank verouder en daarna in drie verskillende groepe vrygestel (ons hersien die eerste bondel), alles teen 100 bewys.

Proe -aantekeninge:

Daar is 'n subtiele knik vir Jim Beam en 'n kersie bo -op, meer soos 'n Haribo Cherry -gummi met 'n sweempie kaneel wat deur die soetheid sny, langs dosisse romige vanielje, ryk toffie en droë sederbakke. Die verhemelte versterk die speserye met note van swartpeper en kaneelpoeier terwyl die kersie na donkerrooi en ryp gebied kom langs 'n effense tabak taaiheid en gons op die tong. Die tabakkou droog naby die einde uit en lei terug na die seder en vanielje terwyl die slukkie stadig vervaag.

Bottom line:

Hierdie bottel wat moeilik gevind kan word, is een van die uitdrukkings wat baie duidelik is oor sy smaak en gevoel. Dit is die klassieke bourbon wat voel dat dit beter word met elke sluk. Die ander twee groepe sal verskillende vlakke van chocobitterheid en vanieljepoeding-dieptes bereik, tesame met die standaard kers-/vanielje-/toffie-/houtagtige note, maar Batch 1 voel regtig soos die mees verfynde en klassieke bourbon van die drie.

Kentucky Uil gekonfiskeer

Gemiddelde prys: $175

Die whisky:

Kentucky Owl is nog 'n opstandingsmerk deur Master Blender Dixon Dedman, die agter-agterkleinseun van die oorspronklike stigter van die gordelroos. Ja, dit kom uit sap van 'n onbekende distilleerdery in Kentucky, wat beteken dat ons nie veel weet wat in die bottel is nie, maar dit laat die familieverhaal en die smaak van die whisky as ons enigste stene. En op hierdie twee vlakke blink hierdie uitdrukking uit.

Proe -aantekeninge:

Die slukkie trek u in met 'n effense rognoot van anys en miskien selfs drop langs ou kelder -eikehout, vanieljeroom en 'n tikkie ryp kersie. The taste warms on the tongue with dark spices, more of that old oak, and a touch of raw leather. The end is long and touches back on those spices, building a real buzzing on your senses, and hitting back towards that oak and leather, with just a hint of cherry tobacco.

Bottom line:

This is another bottle that’s going to vary pretty wildly in prices. We’ve seen it for hundreds of dollars at places like Costco on the West Coast. Is it worth the $125 MSRP? It’s absolutely interesting and much sought after.

Still… we’d say it’s more of a palate-expanding stepping stone to high-end bourbon than the mountaintop.

Bardstown The Prisoner

Average Price: $180

The Whiskey:

Bardstown is one of the premier blenderies of American whiskey. This special release from 2020 takes sourced nine-year-old Tennessee bourbon and finishes the juice in red wine barrels from California’s Prisoner Wine Company for 18 months. The bourbon is then cut with that soft Tennessee water and bottled at 100 proof.

Tasting Notes:

There’s a sense of blackberries, blueberries, and black cherries swimming in thin vanilla and honey cream with a hint of eggnog spices lurking in the background. The sip dries out a bit with a dark vinous edge, leading towards a spicy cherry pie with a crumbly and buttery crust dusted in brown sugar. The end dries out even more with a slight pine panel woodiness and a final whisper of those berries and eggnog spices on a slow fade.

Bottom line:

We’re big fans of Bardstown around here. So it should come as no surprise that we’d recommend tracking down one of these very limited release bottles. This bottle really feels like you’re getting every cent of that $125 MSRP, with the refinement and beauty of the whiskey in the bottle.

Garrison Brothers Balmorhea

Average Price: $185

The Whiskey:

This much-lauded Texas bourbon is the highwater mark of what great whiskey from Texas can be. The juice is aged in Ozark oak for four years and then finished in oak from Minnesota for another year, all under that blazing West Texas sunshine. The bourbon is then small-batched, proofed with Texas spring water, and bottled at a healthy 115 proof.

Tasting Notes:

You’re greeted with a real sense of a corn-syrup-laced pecan pie next to hazelnut bespeckled cinnamon rolls and creamy milk chocolate. That chocolate drives the taste towards a mint-chocolate ice cream vibe (heavy on the chocolate part) with small dashes of holiday spices, hard toffee candies, worn leather, and a flourish of cedar boxes full of dried tobacco leaves. The end circles back around to all that sweet and chocolatey creaminess with a final slice of pecan pie on a slow fade.

Bottom line:

This is one of those bottles that just … delivers. Yes, it wins all the major awards and comes with a ton of hype. But, goddamnit, it’s f*cking delicious. It’s so tasty and truly easy-drinking that we wish it was affordable enough to be an everyday dram.

Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Revival

Average Price: $185

The Whiskey:

The Master’s Keep series is the mountaintop of Wild Turkey and, we’d argue, great Kentucky bourbon in general. The juice is a nod to Jimmy Russell releasing a sherry-cask finished bourbon back in 2000 (yes, sherry cask finishing has been around that long in bourbon). The ripple that makes this bottle special is that those sherry barrels are barrels that held sherry for 20 years.

That’s an extremely rare barrel in a world where sherry rarely ages more than three-ish years.

Tasting Notes:

You’re beckoned into this sip through a nose full of marzipan, heavy with rose water, next to sultanas, orange oils, wet cedar, and a hint of spicy stewed red cherry. The taste delivers on those promises by amping up the spices into Christmas cake territory while adding in a rich and creamy vanilla pudding and a dash of pineapple and apricot. That apricot dries out while the fade slowly walks you back through those Christmas spices, almond, and stewed cherry.

Bottom line:

This is the perfect end-of-the-year bottle. One, it’s holds a deep wintry/holiday season vibe to its core. Two, the price is going to range close to $200 (or more), making this a great candidate for a celebratory time of year.

Jefferson’s Presidential Select 16 Year

Average Price: $190

The Whiskey:

Jefferson’s is another stellar American whiskey blendery and distillery. This very limited release (only 10,000 bottles were made) is a unique double-barreled whiskey. The juice first spends ten years maturing in new oak, as per bourbon’s rules. Then the whiskey is transferred to a brand new oak barrel for a second maturation of six more years. In the end, the younger notes of the second barreling create a richer sense of “bourbon” in the final product, instead of sherry or port or rum, etc.

It’s a double bourboned bourbon, so to speak.

Tasting Notes:

“Bourbon” is what you’re greeted with as notes of rich and creamy vanilla mingle with buttery toffee, wet oak, caramel-covered pears, and a matrix of holiday spices. The palate really delivers on all of that, while refining nicely as the spices lean into a cinnamon candy and the vanilla turns into a thick custard with a caramel glaze. That sweetness and silkiness impart a velvet mouthfeel that spikes with notes of spice, wet yet buzzy tobacco, and a mild sense of those pears.

Bottom line:

This bottle feels like a real collector’s item that’ll be hard to keep in the vault since it’s so damn tasty and easy to drink. This dram with a single rock really shines as a great, all-around high-end bourbon that lives up to the price in every way.

Weller Aged 12 Years

Average Price: $199

The Whiskey:

Weller 12 is lovingly referred to as the “Poorman’s Pappy,” with good reason. Both whiskeys are made by Buffalo Trace with the same wheated bourbon mash bill. Of course, the barrels are treated differently when it comes to where they are stored and why. But we’re still talking about a very similar product at the end of the day.

Once which also tends to be a bit more accessible, at least for now.

Tasting Notes:

This opens with a sense of vanilla pods coming to life in a hot pan next to light orange oil-infused marzipan, a touch of sweet corn, and a whisper of musty oak. The palate holds onto the orange and almond as it dries out towards a cedar box and vanilla tobacco chew with a mild sense of dry spices. The end is long-ish and touches on the wood, orange oils, spice, and nuttiness, leaving you warmed with that classic Kentucky Hug.

Bottom line:

This is a bottle that gets a decent amount of hype (enough to make it cost far more than its MSRP, but not ridiculously so). For us, it’s an amazing choice for mixing up high-end whiskey cocktails like a fine Manhattan or Sazerac. Of course, it’s a solid sipper too, best with ice, especially when winter comes back around.

Michter’s 10 Year

Average Price: $199

The Whiskey:

The triumph of Michter’s coming to Kentucky (from Pennsylvania) is writ large in this bottle of fine bourbon. The juice is now contract-distilled according to Master Distiller Pam Heilmann and Master of Maturation Andrea Wilson’s precise instructions and watchful eyes (though, they’re distilling their own juice now in Kentucky).

This expression is a ten-year-old single barrel drop that hits the highest marks when talking about what bourbon is and can be.

Tasting Notes:

There’s a maple syrup sweetness with spicy tobacco, creamy vanilla, and burnt toffee next to leathery oak. The taste hints at a charred bitterness (burnt espresso bean?) next to a touch of caramel-meets-fruit that meanders back through that tobacco, leather, vanilla, and maple. The end is soft but surprisingly short while touching on the sweeter notes of maple and vanilla and leaving the spice, tobacco, and oak behind.

Bottom line:

This really does feel like the ultimate expression of bourbon as a style. There’s a sense that you’re drinking something wholly unique to the American whiskey experience while also getting a sip that stuns in its refinement and excellence as a whiskey in general. While a rock certainly helps this sip along, it’s delicate enough to drink neat and will wow with every sip.

As a Drizly affiliate, Uproxx may receive a commission pursuant to certain items on this list.


Meet Daniel Boulud in Dubai

Chef Daniel Boulud at Brasserie Boulud in Dubai

I first interviewed chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud in the Cayman Islands for Ritz-Carlton’s annual Cayman Cookout beach bash in 2014. Digging out my interviews for FooDiva and, separately, for The National, I wrote back then:

“Out of the ten world-class chefs I meet at Cayman Cookout, Daniel Boulud ranks top, leading the talented pack. Interviewing him in the hotel bar, he’s a listener. Funny. Highly interesting en interested. Nuuskierig. And that French accent is a charm.”

Fast forward over six years, he was in Dubai last week to open Brasserie Boulud at the new Las Vegas-esque Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk in the Wafi complex. A 90-minute interview later, and those statements still ring true. To top it all off, at 65 now, he’s not aged one bit, despite having to navigate a global crisis threatening to ruin his three-decade-old empire spanning 17 restaurants in North America and Singapore, as well as catering and private dining ventures. Owning the building that houses his flagship two-Michelin star Daniel restaurant has helped manage the rent obligations across his other establishments.

So voilà, here’s a rather long, yet insightful read into this Lyon-born monsieur, including what he makes of Dubai’s maturing homegrown restaurant scene.

When I interviewed you in the Cayman Islands back in 2014, you mentioned potentially bringing your Mediterranean-North African concept Boulud Sud to Dubai. Why did you change your mind and settle for your now-closed Las Vegas brand – Brasserie Boulud? First, because the Group Accor and Sofitel approached us and said, “You know we have a brasserie project here in Dubai, and we would like Daniel to come and take this.” So they already had in mind to create a brasserie, and we came about a year ago. The structure and the framing was already in place, and we tweaked a few things, but we didn’t want to just reinvent things. We felt that it had a very good direction and a good setting. I already had Brasserie Boulud for five years at the Wynn in Las Vegas which was amazingly successful over the five year contract. So I haven’t done Brasserie Boulud for a while.

Is it similar to the Las Vegas concept? It has similarities and yet it’s a different time. There is some DNA and strong influence from Boulud Sud, but also from Cafe Boulud which is now 23 years old – where we always had four menus. And I think, coming here with Brasserie Boulud, it will give me a chance to pull from Boulud Sud, Café Boulud, DB Bistro and still stay in the DNA of Daniel Boulud – but some dishes will vary with flavours that are a little more Asian, sometimes Middle Eastern, or Mediterranean, or sometimes very French.

Why this hotel? I know Sofitel from the founder of Sofitel and Accor Group, the family, and the CEO also. And being associated with a French company here, we are very happy with that.

How many times are you set to visit Dubai in your contract? I cannot sign a contract imposing me how many times, how many days – but we are committed as a group, either myself, or my corporate chef, or the director operations, or the CEO to visit. Also we maintain a close relationship we have weekly meetings we are in constant communication with the chef, with the managers, with the performance. But like all my other restaurants, I regularly visit, and with Singapore, it’s a perfect hub to be able to bounce here and there at the same time.

What are the biggest challenges you are facing in a Covid world? The biggest challenge is to not have been able to reopen all our businesses yet. In Washington DC, we have not reopened. In New York, I’ve only opened half of my business. The catering company is still closed. Half of my retail store, Épicerie Boulud, is open. DB Bistro is closed. Cafe Boulud is closed. But I moved Cafe Boulud to Blantyre, a beautiful Relais & Châteaux property three hours north of New York. We did a pop-up there for the summer because they didn’t have the music festival. It was really well received, so much so, we are staying there for longer.

I wanted to save my talent, and bring them back. They were unemployed making a quarter of their salary. We also had the help of the government, but that came very early and it didn’t give us the chance to open the business until very late. They gave us 24 weeks to use this support, but we could barely use half, because we didn’t have enough operational time. So it was good, but not perfect. Now we have about 60 per cent of our staff which is not much, but the ratio of staff to revenue is very different now. We’re trying to figure out a balance. I feel safe going through winter if we don’t have a shutdown.

You re-opened your flagship two-star Daniel though? Yes, but I didn’t re-open Daniel as Daniel. We re-opened first with a sidewalk café and take-out. Every weekend we sent trucks with boxes to the Hamptons full for the whole weekend. You could feed eight people for three days with boxes, different menus and just a little bit of finishing. Then when they gave the authorisation to open inside, we raised some money with sponsors and with help from designer friends and Hermès, we created a stage inside Daniel to transform the restaurant into Boulud Sur Mer. We brought the South of France to New York, with all the flavours of Provence and the Mediterranean – and the feel of this garden room inside Daniel was quite transforming. We’re still at 25 per cent capacity, so we’re going to continue with it. Now that it’s getting colder in New York, we have built bungalows outside which was a real structure because we have insulation, flooring, fabrics, heaters. A crazy production! But we tried to stay positive and creative, and are still financially stable. We try not to blow away money for nothing.

How else have you had to adapt? Any silver linings? Five days before New York imposed a shutdown, we made a decision to shut the business because we had a Covid case who came to the restaurant and hit the headlines. I felt so scared for our staff and for everyone. I talked to Eric [Ripert of Le Bernardin] that day and he said, “I think I’m going to close too”. Then we decided both to shut our business. It was a little scary, crazy, and from there, within two weeks, we created a foundation for our staff. ‘Hand in Hand’ by Daniel Boulud – and we managed to raise more than half a million dollars to give back to the staff. And we’re still paying back the insurance and if anyone needs support, we still have money to give them.

I also have a new partner for a business next year called Le Pavillon, and that’s at One Vanderbilt – a new tower in the heart of Manhattan – opening in March next year. This new partner has a big real estate company in New York and he felt that many of his food tenants were not able to reopen their restaurants. Usually it’s the other way around, you beg the real estate to either help you with your lease – yet here he said he’s going to pay them to reopen their business. So we created a foundation called Food First Foundation and he seeded that with one million dollars. We started to have restaurants making meals. That was about three to four weeks after the pandemic started and since then I have been making meals. We have given about half a million meals to New Yorkers to date, and I think I’ve done myself about a quarter of that to CityMeals-On-Wheels [Daniel’s longterm community initiative] mostly and to Jose Andres’ World Central Kitchen.

And to come here and open. Of course, everybody is like “Wow. You’re in Dubai? You’re opening a new restaurant!” I’m like, yeah well some parts of the world are hopeful. And I think the silver lining is to have been able to bring and save quite a lot of talent.

We have also joined Goldbelly – a national distribution of foods – so you can order a bouillabaisse or braised short ribs ready cooked to eat right away or freeze. You can live in the middle of Texas or Minnesota and have Daniel Boulud on your table. I never had so much cardboard in my restaurants. There’s enough business to keep people occupied and I think that’s the goal. Will it grow to become a profitable business one day? Kan wees. But we did it out of necessity, and we might eventually do it as a business.

What’s the future of fine dining and Michelin/ World’s 50 Best restaurants? Does it have a future? People don’t feel they can engage in a 12-course meal yet, because I think fine dining has been disrupted. So everyone needs to find his groove, but one thing you can’t take away is the talent, the creativity, the ambition, the energy, the will to do better, to keep being relevant. Fine dining is the greatest school in our industry. And I think that has to continue. The customer with the privilege to indulge once in a while, will come back. In New York, a couple of friends have re-opened their fine dining, even Eric re-opened at Le Bernardin without changing the concept much – and people are very happy to come back.

You’ve clearly adapted very well with Daniel. Do you think you’re going to incorporate some of these changes when you re-launch your tasting menus? When might that be? Natuurlik. I think next year. I want to do a refresh with the restaurant. The restaurant is 23 years old – and we went through two different designs. This new life will define the direction I want to take, but it will still be fine dining for sure. Fine dining will never die. There are so many young people who appreciate so much the sense of accessible luxury. Because I think unless you are outrageously expensive, fine dining can be as affordable as going to a Cipriani or a Zuma. The stigma of fine dining being expensive or passé or out of place is totally wrong. I think people need to nurture themselves with excellence and creativity and the energy pulled out of fine dining restaurants. Maybe the menu and team might be a little smaller, the performance might be a little less than it used to be in terms of volume or revenue, but the commitment will remain the same. And everyone has to find this new balance with the economics. We have to guess for the future and try to move on as we go. That’s the biggest challenge.

How did you feel losing your third star in 2015? Were you expecting it? Was it fair? And what did you do about it?No, I was not expecting it. Restaurant Daniel has been a restaurant that has always strived in excellence. New York has the big five – Per Se, Eleven Madison Park, Le Bernardin, Jean-Georges, Daniel. Jean-Georges and I are maybe the biggest and most entrepreneurial, compared to the others. Maybe some of the decisions that we made for our business were not compatible with Michelin. We cook for New Yorkers, not just tourists. And I feel that maybe that was a bigger challenge, because I needed to prove my excellence and my consistency and my commitment to my customers, rather than to Michelin. It has served my business safely well it has served my customer well it has served my staff well it has served me well and maybe it didn’t serve Michelin perfectly. But that’s okay. And when I lost the star it didn’t matter to any for the business. It hurt me and my staff more, but at the same time I told my staff, I said, “Listen it’s not the end of the world. And we’re going to be the best two star New York has seen, and we will always push the three on their hedge.” And I think we have always done that. The same customer will come to New York for a few days and they’re going to go to Le Bernardin, they’re going to go to Daniel, they’re going to go to Jean-Georges, they’re going to go to EMP, and they can compare. I leave it to them.

So it’s better to be a good two star, than a bad three star? Yeah, exactly. Not ‘bad’, but…[he smiles].

What do you think of Dubai’s restaurant scene? Of course there are a lot of franchises. There are also some good local chefs. I think there’s room for evolving talent for independents, and that will continue. I think it’s important to know how to adapt. I think in Dubai they want to feel like life is a party and let’s go and have fun. I think that’s good, and I believe in that. But I think fine dining has always played a role here and will continue. I think it might not be the majority of what the city wants to be, neither what the city needs, but I see the lineup of talent coming next year from independent to big restaurant groups. It’s good to be a part of this. I compare Dubai with Singapore in a way – very cosmopolitan, a lot of expats, but a lot of locals, and different types of locals, so here of course I have to adapt the cuisine to not use any wine in the cooking.

Are you looking to expand elsewhere in the region, Saudi Arabia perhaps? Ja, natuurlik. I have some friends there that are doing some projects and I would like to have a little bit more opportunity, but first we will start with this one and not spread ourselves too fast, too thin. And certainly Asia as well. Singapore has been quite amazing [for us].

You’re an investor in Spyce, a robotic restaurant in Boston. Do you think, given the increased Covid health and safety protocols, robotics are the next step for fast-casual restaurants? I have been with those kids for five years, as an investor and as a partner in the business. They are opening a new location at Harvard Square with version two of the robot which is really incredible. If the first robot was doing let’s say 25 steps in the making of your meal, this new robotic kitchen does about 75 steps. It has the potential to serve 600 meals an hour. And, surprisingly, tastes good. It does everything, including seared meats. It’s extremely complex, but extremely efficient. And in this world of Covid, in this world of safety, it is fabulous.

You’re both a chef and a restaurateur. Do you think the tradition of a maître d’ is dying? How does it sit in terms of importance with the chef? I don’t think a maître d’ will ever die, despite technology and online bookings. They have such an important role in making sure that every customer has a customised experience to maintain the high quality of service. It’s important for a customer to know they will be taken care of properly and personally. Yes the chef is the marketing guru behind his restaurant, but in the old days the maître d’ [with his little black book] was the marketing guru, and I think there’s still a big role to play with that. I talk to my maître d’ every day in New York and ask him what’s happening, where are you seating these guests, what are you doing for these other guests. So don’t worry – fine dining, maître d’s, sommeliers – it’s all going to stay.

Some fun questions to end. How would you like to be remembered? I haven’t built a legacy yet.

Surely you have? Goed. Perhaps over these forty years in America with the thousands of young chefs and young professionals. I certainly gave them an opportunity to become who they are. As an example, yesterday I was at Burj Al Arab and I went to the new restaurant Sal with Jumeirah’s vice president of food & beverage, Dominique Romeo, who used to work for me 20 years ago. He met his wife working with me, and yesterday I met his two daughters they’re 14 and 12. I have so many children who came out of relationships between people working together in the restaurant. Coming from different parts of the world and meeting at the restaurant and becoming couples and having children and families.

The school of Daniel? Ja. I want to be remembered as the school of Daniel. Because there will be many people to testify about the education and the impact we have. I want to continue to help young people in this business. Being an inspiration is very important.

What’s your favourite restaurant in the world? Apart from yours of course. It’s in France – Troisgros. Michel, César and Léo Troisgros. I know the house for almost 50 years and what has always fascinated me is this amazing renewal of their tradition and yet constant innovation. There’s a sense of family unity and creativity and honesty that fascinates me. They’re good friends but they are also great inspiration. They never change and it doesn’t matter when I go there, whether it’s 30 or 20 years ago or today, I still feel that it’s a renewed experience by being so different and yet so much.

Have they had to adapt with Covid? They moved their restaurant from the city to the countryside into an estate and it has really changed the mood of the experience. They’re always witty and they really have mastered the art of doing so much with so little. Sometimes they will do a dish like saumon à l’oseille which was created in the late 60s/ early 70s. The dish was composed of three things – salmon, sorrel and cream sauce. One of the world’s most legendary dishes. Often they will make a dish out of two things and make it in a composition that is unforgettable. Troisgros has always amazed me and will keep amazing me.


Kyk die video: Dalmore selected by Daniel Boulud (November 2021).